Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper - Season 1

Whether you're designing for yourself, a friend or a client, Suzy shows how to get key measurements without making your model uncomfortable. Measuring a dress form poses its own challenges that you'll learn how to address.

Using your own measurements or the example Suzy provides, you'll fill out the provided worksheet to plan your moulage. Then draft along with Suzy to create the "bones" of your moulage on pattern paper.

Drafting the moulage may seem complicated, but Suzy shows you how to go from A to B to C and beyond to get precise measurements, darts and shaping laid down on paper.

You'll continue drafting the back of the moulage and truing it up so it will line up with the front. Suzy demonstrates the importance of making a shoulder adjustment for the best fit.

With your moulage laid out, you can now trace it on pattern paper and prepare your muslin. Suzy gives some tracing and cutting tips, adds seam allowance and provides the order of construction for stay-stitching, sewing seams and sewing darts.

Now that your muslin is sewn up, you can check it on your model or dress form. Suzy points out all the key areas to check and how to adjust them. You'll then transfer those adjustment to your moulage, redrawing and cutting to achieve the exact duplicate of the body you're designing for.

It's time to draft your sloper! To the precise measurements you've established in your moulage, you'll add some ease throughout the garment. The sloper you create can be the foundation of countless designs, from blouses to dresses to coats.

Polish your sloper by truing up your lines and darts both front and back, then place the pieces together to ensure a smooth transition between them.

Trace your sloper on heavier stock such as oak tag for durability, and transfer all your darts and critical measurements.