The sport of surfing is so much more than just a water sport or paddling out and catching waves. It becomes a lifestyle or a perspective of life for many. Why is this?
Surfing teaches one to flow with nature and the elements. In order to excel, a deep understanding of the ocean, weather, coastal topography, and even marine life must be grasped. Somewhat contrary to the psychologically programmed ideals of society and civilization, surfing teaches balance with nature and the environment and gives one a sense of man’s true niche in our ever-changing world.
The first in a series, this book shares true, chronologically compiled surfing stories that span two decades.
